Saturday dawned fine and the weather remained so for the whole weekend as I took the ridge north some 40km from Nok-dong village in Busan's far northern reaches; crossing the peaks of Unbong-san, Cheonseong-san and Jeongjok-san before reaching the small town of Habuk on the Jigyeong-gogae pass.
Trail head crossing Expressway 1
Highway number 1 from Busan to Seoul, South Korea's main artery, seperates Nokdong village from the Busan Country Club; a fairly swanky golf course which the trail briefly hugs on the climb to the first peak
Busan Country Club
Expressway 1 heading to Yangsan city from behind the Golf Course
Jongju living cows
Crossing the small peak behind the golf course brings a sudden change from walking above the urban area of Busan into rural Korea, where the trail will remain for the rest of the journey to Taebaek.
Unbong-san peak (534m)
From Unbong-san walking is done on a firebreak which at this time of year is covered with knee high grass, and is home to a number of healthy looking snakes. It would be an awesome place to ski come snow time.
Back to Unbong-san
Mine zone
For 8km heading to the peak of Cheongseong-san the ridge is still a mine zone and is flanked by serious razor wire more than 50 years after the Korean war. This section probably represents part of what was referred to as the Pusan perimeter, the point where North Korean forces reached before United Nations troops arrived on the scene. I think it's fair to say that if you found yourself here at that time then you were definitely in the shit.
The presence of the mines forces the trail down off the ridge and across a few small watercourses, breaking the golden rule of Jongju trekking but for pretty good reason.
Cheonseong-san (922m)
The name Cheonseong-san was translated to me as meaning the mountain where 1000 Holy people have studied. Below the peak is the small temple Wonhyo-am, founded by the great monk Wonhyo-daesa more than 1300 years ago. Wonhyo and his life-long friend Uiseong are together responsible for establishing many of Korea's temples.
Wonhyo-am
Wonhyo is one of the most respected writers and philosophers in Korean Buddhist history, and his life story is a colourful one.
He reached his enlightenment after mistakenly drinking stagnant rain water from a skull while sheltering in a tomb he thought was a cave. The water refreshed him until in the light of morning he realised his mistake and became violently ill. At this point he realised that there is no clean and no dirty; the water was fine until he saw what it was, therefore all phenomena arise from the mind.
Later Wonhyo fathered a child to the daughter of the King after making his intention to spend a night with her clear in a comedic song which he sang through the streets of the then capital Gyeongju until it reached the King's ear, and his wish was granted.
Later this year a group of foreign writers and filmmakers plan to retrace the steps of Wonhyo's famous journey from Gyeongju city to the west coast south of Seoul, the site of the tomb where he reached his enlightenment.
Amita Buddha carvings, Wonhyo-am
Paintings at Wonhyo-am
Carved icons in the Sanshin-gak at Wonhyo-am .
Razor wire continuing below Cheonsang-san
Je2Cheonseong-san
Je2Cheonseong-san the second peak of Cheonseong-san, apparently used to be known as Cheongseong-san when the now Cheongseong-san was known as Wonhyo-san..got it?
Je2Cheonseong-san obelisk.
Would make you proud to be a Yangsan-shimin
The way to Soju-dong.
I thought my eyes were deceiving me late on a long day but no, the place exists, its just off road number 7 near Ungsang town. They say the stuff flows from the tap.Yong-bawi rock below Jeongjok-san
Lee Hoon on Jeongjok-san (700m)
Theres not much better on reaching a mountain peak than meeting a friendly chap with a full thermos of coffee. Mr.Lee Hoon was the man for the occasion on this day, we compared maps and had a brew. It turns out we both live in the same town; Pohang by the sea.
Temple below the ridge near Habuk.
Next weeks ridge and the high peaks leading to Shinbul-san.
Looking back to the ridge from the graveyard above Habuk town.
Habuk town, across a similiar bridge on the same highway I crossed the morning before.
Mrs Lee and Mr Jeong.
Leaving the Busan area also means I'll have eaten my last packed lunch courtesy of Mr.Jeong and Mrs.Lee. Thanks a lot for all your assistance over the past few weeks, I hope I can return the favour some day.
3 comments:
mate, nice variety of vista? You're getting into some big open country now, must be looking forward to further wlderness and isolation?
Do you know how old those reliefs are at Wonyho-am...is it named after Wonyho?,and are who are the guys in the paintings?
My Jeong looks good in red!
Im not sure how old the carvings are, but theyre probably about 1300 years old. Yes the temple is definitely named after the great travelling monk Wonhyo-daesa as was the whole mountain on which it lies until recently. Im not sure about the paintings but have a feeling the guy on the right may be Wonhyo himself.
What a journey!! fantastic, I wish to do so one fine day .
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